23 Days Southeast Asia Birding Tour to Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia

CAMBODIA, LAOS, SINGAPORE & MALAYSIA: OVERVIEW
Birdquest’s Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia birding tours visit no fewer than four different Asian countries that between them hold a superb selection of special birds. Cambodia, which for a time was held in a time-warp by its troubled past, has managed to hold onto large and vulnerable birds like Giant Ibis and White-shouldered Ibis which were rendered extinct elsewhere, while reclusive Laos has its own bird specialities. Further south, Singapore and West Malaysia occupy the richest part of the long Malay Peninsula, home to a series of endemic species as well as a rich array of more widespread Sundaic birds.

Among the truly wonderful selection of great birds that we will be looking for during our Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia birding tour are the rare Milky Stork (this is the only tour on which we still see this fast vanishing species!), Greater Adjutant Stork, the near-endemic Giant and White-shouldered Ibises, the rare White-winged Duck, White-rumped Falcon, the near-endemic Chestnut-headed Partridge, the endemic Malayan Partridge, Ferruginous Partridge, the endemic Mountain Peacock-Pheasant, the increasingly rare and hard-to-see Bengal Florican, Red-legged Crake, Pale-capped Pigeon, Spotted Wood Owl, Banded Kingfisher, Black-headed and Pale-headed Woodpeckers, Mangrove and Blue Pittas, the near-endemic Mekong Wagtail, the rare endemic Bare-faced Bulbul, the critically-endangered Straw-headed Bulbul, the endemic Cambodian Tailorbird, the rare Manchurian (or White-browed) Reed Warbler, the now very range-restricted Chinese Grassbird, Jerdon’s Bush Chat, the endemic Malayan Whistling Thrush, the strange Rail-babbler (a monotypic bird family, at its only reliable site!), the near-endemic Sooty Babbler, the endemic Cambodian Laughingthrush (a species which most Cambodia tours omit) and the endemic Malayan Laughingthrush. A non-birding highlight will surely be a visit to the amazing temples of Angkor Wat.

These days Cambodia is an open, safe and very friendly country that is easily accessible to the outside world, with its turbulent and tragic revolutionary period already decades in the past. This little-known and seldom-visited country, characterized by ancient temples, mighty rivers and remote forests, plays host to some avian delights which are nowhere else found so easily. Ancient Cambodians lived, very much as many of them still do today, in houses on stilts, existing on a diet of fish and rice.

After centuries of struggle against the Thais and Vietnamese and later the Spanish and Portuguese, the French arrived in 1863 and virtually turned Cambodia into one of their colonies until eventually, under the guidance of King Norodom Sihanouk, Cambodia regained its independence in 1953. After years of instability during the Vietnam War period, the Maoist revolutionaries of the Khmer Rouge emerged victorious in 1975 when Phnom Penh fell to Pol Pot’s regime and the country entered its most disastrous period. Pol Pot’s men systematically killed more than two million Cambodians, targeting the educated in particular, in their brutal attempt to turn Cambodia into a Maoist, peasant-dominated agrarian cooperative. Currency was abolished, postal services halted and the population became a workforce of slave labourers, effectively cut off from the outside world. In 1978 the Vietnamese invaded, forcing the Khmer Rouge to flee to the jungles along the Thai border from where they sporadically fought the new Vietnamese-backed government. They were eventually outlawed and effectively lost any remaining power with Pol Pot’s death in 1998 (his death was greeted with anger in Cambodia and elsewhere as he was never brought to trial). Hun Sen now leads the nation and this one-eyed strongman has proved to be a stabilizing force.

Fortunately, throughout these troubles, much of Cambodia’s natural and cultural heritage remained intact, although logging is now proceeding at an alarming rate and so one fears for the future of a number of Cambodia’s special birds. Nowadays, with travel both safe and easy, this fascinating country receives a good deal of attention from cultural tourists, eager to visit the amazing temples of Angkor Wat.

Happily for us, ornithologists have also been hard at work in the last decades and have made some unexpected discoveries in Cambodia. The most exciting of these were the discovery of a good population of the legendary near-endemic Giant Ibis, the only viable remaining population of the White-shouldered Ibis and new species of wagtail, tailorbird and laughingthrush; Mekong Wagtail, Cambodian Tailorbird and Cambodian Laughingthrush respectively.

We will begin our Cambodia birding tour at Phnom Penh, from where we travel a short distance to Udong, a great site for the endemic Cambodian Tailorbird.

From there we head northwestwards to Siem Reap, pausing en route in the Pursaat area to visit a fine area of grassland to see the rare, localized and restricted-range Chinese Grassbird, wintering Manchurian (or White-browed) Reed Warblers and other grassland birds.

Siem Reap is situated in the northwest of the country. Here we will visit the waterbird colonies of Tonle Sap, home to breeding Spot-billed Pelicans, Painted Storks, Greater and Lesser Adjutants and in particular the increasingly rare Milky Stork, as well as a good area for the uncommon Asian Golden Weaver. We will also explore some grasslands near the eastern end of Tonle Sap, where we should find the spectacular Bengal Florican at its last stronghold.

No visit to Cambodia would be complete without an exploration of the incomparable Angkor Wat temple complex. The 100 or so remaining temples here are the sacred remains of what was once a much larger administrative and religious centre and are one of the world’s cultural wonders.

Next, we commence our expedition to the remote north of Cambodia where we will visit the dry woodlands and a series of small forest pools where we can expect to find the incredible Giant Ibis, the rare White-shouldered Ibis, the feisty little White-rumped Falcon, Spotted Wood Owl, the spectacular Black-headed Woodpecker and Swinhoe’s Minivet. There is also a good chance for the uncommon Pale-capped Pigeon. February-March is absolutely the best time to look for the ibises, as there are few waterholes left and the birds become concentrated and easier to locate. We will also take a look at an area that sometimes turns up the rare White-winged Duck.

Next, we will drive to the town of Kratie and take an exciting boat trip on the mighty Mekong River where we will see the recently described Mekong Wagtail and the fascinating Irrawaddy River Dolphin.

[Those participants who wish to explore remote Mount Aural in southwestern Cambodia can do so during the optional pre-tour extension. The hill forests of Mount Aural (or Mount Aoral) in the Cardamom Mountains hold the endemic Cambodian Laughingthrush and the near-endemic Chestnut-headed Partridge (and we can expect to see both during our visit), as well as some other interesting birds including Silver Pheasant, Banded Kingfisher, Blue Pitta, Green Cochoa and Davison’s Leaf Warbler.]

After our travels through Cambodia, we shall have the opportunity to enjoy a short exploration of the little-visited and rather reclusive country of Laos, a place that has been completely off the birding map until very recently. Laos is a very relaxed and comfortable place to visit, a fact which is gradually attracting more and more visitors to this beautiful part of Southeast Asia.

During our visit to Laos, you can be amongst the birding pioneers as we visit some beautiful karst limestone hills, where the interesting endemic Bare-faced Bulbul was only recently discovered for science in the remnant forests on their slopes. We should also see the restricted-range Sooty Babbler and with luck the recently-described Limestone Leaf Warbler.

A number of other interesting species occur in this little-known area, including Pale-headed Woodpecker, White-tailed Flycatcher and Black-browed Fulvetta.

Laos also harbours a population of the restricted-range Jerdon’s Buschat and we shall be visiting an area along the Mekong River near the capital city of Vientiane in search of these dapper birds.

The long, narrow Malay Peninsula, which encompasses West Malaysia, Singapore and southernmost Thailand and Myanmar, offers some of the most exciting birding in South-East Asia, possessing a very rich avifauna. For birdwatchers, it is the rainforests and hill evergreen forests that still survive here that are a major attraction. Rainforests are the richest habitat on earth and those of South-East Asia are thought to be the oldest of all. There are more tree species found in the Malay Peninsula than in the forests of Amazonia and this floristic wealth is reflected in the remarkable diversity of the forest avifauna. Formerly the entire Malay Peninsula was covered with these lush forests but clearance for rubber and oil-palm plantations and other uses has taken its toll. Nonetheless, extensive areas remain.

Good accommodations and food, and pleasant travelling conditions, make birding in West Malaysia and Singapore a pleasure.

After a short visit to Singapore, where our main targets are Red-legged Crake and the critically endangered Straw-headed Bulbil, we will cross into West Malaysia.

Firstly, we shall visit Panti Bird Sanctuary (also known as Panti Forest Reserve), situated near the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula, where the key target is the strange and wonderful Rail-babbler, a species so unique it is now placed in its own family. Naturally, this has made this unusual species even more sought-after by birders than ever before. Panti is very probably the most reliable site for this species anywhere in its range and is also home to an excellent array of other lowland Sundaic forest species, including Red-crowned Barbet, Grey-breasted Babbler and sometimes Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeon. We will also visit a reliable site for Mangrove Pitta in the same region.

Afterwards, we will move northwards to Fraser’s Hill, an attractive hill station. The excellent broadleaved evergreen forests surrounding the resort offer a sharply contrasting avifauna to that of the Malaysian lowlands, including a number of species of Himalayan origin such as Pygmy Cupwing and Long-tailed Sibia, as well as more localized specialities like the endemic Malayan Partridge, Fire-tufted Barbet, Black-and-crimson Oriole, the endemic Malayan Whistling Thrush, Rufous-browed and Pygmy Flycatchers, Blue Nuthatch, the handsome Black Laughingthrush and the endemic Malayan Laughingthrush. More difficult specialities include Yellow-vented Green Pigeon, Rusty-naped Pitta and Marbled Wren-Babbler.

Finally, we will make a visit to Bukit Tinggi, where the once near-impossible endemic Mountain Peacock-Pheasant has become much easier to see! This is also a good site for Ferruginous Partridge and Blyth’s Frogmouth.

It is not often one can visit four different countries during one birding tour, but what a combination they make!

Birdquest has operated West Malaysia birding tours since 1987, Cambodia birding tours since 2003 and Laos birding tours since 2011.

Cambodia & Laos-only or Singapore & West Malaysia-only Options: Providing there is still space available 6 months prior to the tour start, we can then accept bookings for either of these sections of the tour. Please contact our office if you are interested in doing this.

Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels are of a good or at least medium standard throughout. During the optional Mount Aural extension, there will be three nights of very simple outfitted camping (and no showers, but there is a squat toilet). Road transport is by minibus/passenger van and 4×4 vehicles and roads are variable in quality (good in Malaysia and Singapore, patchy in Cambodia and Laos).

Walking: The walking effort during our Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia birding tour is mostly easy, but occasionally moderate. During the optional Mount Aural extension, the first part of the trail up the mountain is easy but the second part is steep and demanding in parts, with rope guardrails in one section. We do not recommend the extension for anyone who is not fit and with good balance (at least for their age).

Climate: Mostly hot and also generally humid. Sunny weather will be interspersed with cloudy periods. Rain is unlikely in Cambodia and Laos but showers are commonplace in Singapore and Malaysia.

Bird Photography: Opportunities during our Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia birding tour are worthwhile.

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS
Tempting out the recently discovered Cambodian Tailorbird – a bit of a show-off
Finding the rare Chinese Grassbird and wintering Manchurian Reed Warblers at Pursat
Milky and Greater Adjutant Storks amidst teeming flocks of large waterbirds, as we explore the waterways fringing The Great Lake (Tonle Sap)
Wandering through the amazing archaeological mecca of Angkor Wat
The excitement when a Bengal Florican takes flight from the sweeping floodplain grasslands
Watching the endangered White-shouldered Ibis at Tmat Boey
Finally setting eyes on the near-endemic Giant Ibis for the first time, one of South-East Asias most threatened and iconic birds
Tracking down the pretty White-rumped Falcon and the handsome Spotted Wood Owl
Intimate encounters with the Irrawaddy Dolphins of Kampi Pool, not to mention the near-endemic Mekong Wagtails
Watching the Cambodian Laughingthrush on Mount Aural, an endemic missed off most Cambodia tour itineraries!
Near-endemic Chestnut-headed Partridges trundling across a forest trail, and stunning green and yellow Indochinese Green Magpies
Bizarre endemic Bare-faced Bulbuls and range-restricted Sooty Babblers amidst the jagged karst limestone pinnacles of Central Laos
Coming across Red-legged Crake and the critically endangered Straw-headed Bulbul in Singapore’s wildlife reserves
The gripping exciting before setting eyes on the amazing Rail-babbler, sole member of its family and so hard to see elsewhere, at Panti Bird Reserve
A roosting Barred Eagle-Owl peeping out between the palm leaves
Flashing Mangrove Pittas!
The ringing cries of Great Argus emanating from the inner depths of the forest
The tameness of the montane birds at the cool heights of Fraser’s Hill, the species composition giving an almost Himalayan feel to the place
An endemic Malayan Whistling Thrush bounding along a deserted roadside before dawn
Close-ups of a feeding group of endemic Malayan Partridges, after a patient wait
Unparalleled close encounters with the rare endemic Mount Peacock-Pheasant and the stunning Ferruginous Partridge
Visiting four Asian countries in the course of a single speciality-filled tour!

OUTLINE ITINERARY
MOUNT AURAL PRE-TOUR EXTENSION
Day 1: Afternoon tour start at Phnom Penh airport. Drive to Udong.
Day 2: Drive to Mount Aural. Ascend Mount Aural to first camp.
Days 3-4: Upper camp on Mount Aural.
Day 5: Descend Mount Aural and drive to Udong.
MAIN TOUR
Day 1: Afternoon tour start at Phnom Penh airport. Drive to Udong.
Day 2: Cambodian Tailorbird, then drive to Pursat.
Day 3: Pursat area, then drive to Siem Reap.
Day 4: Explore Angkor Wat and Siem Reap area.
Day 5: Tonle Sap wetlands. Overnight Siem Reap.
Day 6: Tonle Sap grasslands, then drive to Tmat Boey area.
Days 7-8: Tmat Boey area. Giant and White-shouldered Ibises etc.
Day 9: Tmat Boey, then drive to Kratie.
Day 10: Kratie, then drive to Phnom Penh airport. Flight to Vientiane in Laos.
Day 11: Mekong River, then drive to Ban Nahin.
Day 12: Ban Nahin area.
Day 13: Ban Nahin, then return to Vientiane airport for flight to Singapore.
Day 14: Singapore.
Day 15: By train and road to Kota Tinggi in Malaysia. First visit to Panti Forest.
Days 16-18: Exploring Panti Forest.
Day 19: Panti Forest, then drive to Fraser’s Hill.
Days 20-21: Fraser’s Hill.
Day 22: Fraser’s Hill, then drive to Bukit Tinggi.
Day 23: Bukit Tinggi, then drive to Kuala Lumpur international airport for afternoon tour end.

CAMBODIA, LAOS, SINGAPORE & MALAYSIA BIRDING TOUR: DETAILED ITINERARY
Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 1 Afternoon tour start at Phnom Penh airport. From there we will transfer to the town of Udong, situated to the northwest of Cambodia’s capital city, for an overnight stay.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 2 This morning we will look for the pretty and easy to find endemic Cambodia Tailorbird. We will also come across a few widespread Cambodian birds.

Afterwards, we will drive northwestwards to the town of Pursat for an overnight stay. During the late afternoon, we will have our first opportunity to explore the grasslands and scrublands near Pursat.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 3 The near-threatened Chinese Grassbird, a species that can otherwise only really be seen on the Birdquest Burma (Myanmar) tour or in Hong Kong, has recently been discovered near Pursat. We will be looking for this very special bird in the extensive grasslands that remain in this seldom-visited area, assisted by its distinctive vocalisations.

Another very special bird in these grasslands is the uncommon Manchurian (or White-browed) Reed Warbler. Here it is relatively easy to locate, which cannot be said for its breeding grounds in the area once known as Manchuria in Northeast China, where much habitat has been lost to overgrazing and more permanent agricultural changes.

There will be plenty of other birds to look for in the area, including Painted Stork, Asian Openbill, Chinese Pond Heron, Eastern Cattle Egret, Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers, Oriental Pratincole, Lesser Coucal, Germain’s Swiftlet, Asian Palm Swift, Asian Green and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Freckle-breasted Woodpecker, Black Drongo, Racket-tailed Treepie, Eastern Jungle Crow, Horsfield’s Bush Lark, Barn and Red-rumped Swallows, Oriental Reed and Lanceolated Warblers, Striated Grassbird, Zitting and Golden-headed Cisticolas, Yellow-bellied and Plain Prinias, Common Tailorbird, Plain-backed Sparrow, Baya Weaver, Red Avadavat, Scaly-breasted Munia and Paddyfield and Red-throated Pipits.

We will also have our first chances for King (or Blue-breasted) Quail, Common Buttonquail and the ever-dwindling Yellow-breasted Bunting.

Afterwards, we will travel to Siem Reap, situated close to the vast Tonle Sap lake, for a three nights stay.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Days 4-5 While based at Siem Reap, we will visit the amazing ruins of Angkor Wat, one of the world’s most awesome cultural spectacles. The sacred remains here comprise around 100 temples and are only a small part of what was once a much larger religious and administrative centre. The complex was built between the 9th and 13th centuries AD to glorify a succession of Khmer kings. Most of Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century and the temples were gradually cloaked by forest. However, after renewed interest in the site in the late 19th century, the forest that threatened to completely engulf the temples were cut back and restoration work continues to this day.

Although it will be hard to tear ourselves away from these amazing cultural treasures, it will be impossible not to notice some birds in the surroundings of the temples and amongst the species that we may well encounter are Spotted and Zebra Doves, colourful Red-breasted and Alexandrine Parakeets, Asian Barred Owlet, House Swift, Asian Palm Swift, Lineated and Coppersmith Barbets, Barn Swallow, Streak-eared and Yellow-vented Bulbuls, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Blue Rock Thrush (many are of the migrant rufous-bellied race philippensis), Common Tailorbird, Malaysian Pied Fantail, Black-naped Oriole, Common and Great (or White-vented) Mynas, and Eurasian Tree Sparrow. Angkor Wat is also a good site for the attractive Forest Wagtail.

Our stay at Siem Reap will give us the opportunity to visit a wetland of huge international importance. Today we will make an excursion by boat across the waters of the vast Tonle Sap to the huge waterbird colonies at Prek Toal. Tonle Sap is a huge fishery (and, in addition, up to a million water snakes are harvested here annually!) which provides a significant proportion of the entire protein intake of the Cambodian people! As a result, the fisheries of the lake are strictly protected and a by-product of this is that the waterbirds have been shielded from illegal poaching, resulting in the best remaining large waterbird colonies in Southeast Asia (if not the whole of Asia!).

Setting off from the shore of this huge lake, we will first pass a floating village before crossing the lake, accompanied by hundreds of Whiskered Terns and occasionally a few Brown-headed Gulls.

Once near to the colonies we will switch to smaller boats and proceed up small side channels to some observation platforms where we will soon be amazed by the sheer quantity of birds, as thousands of cormorants, pelicans, storks and herons are constantly in view!

Huge numbers of Indian Cormorants are joined by smaller numbers of Little and Great Cormorants and Oriental Darters. Mixed flocks of Little, Eastern Cattle, Great and Intermediate Egrets are joined by dozens of Grey and Purple Herons, Chinese Pond Herons (which can sometimes be compared side-by-side with Javan Pond Heron) and smaller numbers of Striated Herons and Black-crowned Night Herons. Asian Openbill is the commonest stork species, but these are joined by good numbers of Painted Storks and, in the frequent ‘kettles’ of storks overhead, we will look carefully for Lesser Adjutant and the endangered Greater Adjutant, both of which have good populations here. Spot-billed Pelicans (here at their only colony in Southeast Asia) are delightfully numerous and we will get many opportunities to watch the antics of these impressive beasts. Smaller numbers of Black-headed Ibises are mixed in with the colonies and we also have a good chance of finding the rare Milky Stork at its only known freshwater breeding colony in the world.

Raptors are also in evidence: the stately Grey-headed Fish Eagle is frequently encountered and we might also encounter Western Osprey and Brahminy Kite. Common Kingfishers and attractive Black-capped Kingfishers are sometimes seen along the channels and in the waterside vegetation, we may well encounter species such as Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns, Common Moorhen, Bronze-winged Jacana, Greater Coucal, Green-billed Malkoha, Black-browed and Oriental Reed Warblers, Pallas’s Grasshopper (or Rusty-rumped) Warbler (common by voice but often hard to see) and Olive-backed Sunbird.

We may also encounter one or two of the scarcer species of the area, which include Black Bittern, Glossy Ibis, Ruddy-breasted Crake and Red-necked Phalarope. If we are really in luck we will find a Buffy Fish Owl at its daytime roost.

Close to Siem Reap, we will explore an area comprising open fields, rice paddies and marshy pools which is home to a wide variety of species. Our major target here is the declining Asian Golden Weaver and this area is probably now the best place in Cambodia to observe this interesting species.

The pools and partly-flooded paddies attract Lesser Whistling Duck, Indian Spot-billed Duck, Little Grebe, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Black-winged Stilt, Oriental Pratincole, Little Ringed Plover, Pacific Golden Plover (uncommon), Black-tailed Godwit (uncommon), Common and Pin-tailed Snipes, Spotted Redshank, Common Greenshank, Marsh, Wood and Common Sandpipers, Long-toed Stint and Pied Kingfisher, whilst Greater Painted-snipe and Lanceolated Warbler skulk around the edges. Eastern Yellow Wagtails are often numerous and are mostly of the form macronyx, known as Eastern Grey-headed Wagtail. Other likely new birds in this area include Plaintive Cuckoo, White Wagtail, Stejneger’s Stonechat, Brown Shrike, Racket-tailed Treepie and White-shouldered and Black-collared Starlings.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 6 Near the eastern end of Tonle Sap, we will visit an area of seasonally flooded grassland that is rich in birds. The top priority for us at this location will be the impressive and rare Bengal Florican. We have an excellent chance of finding this handsome bustard. We will also have another good chance of finding the restricted-range Manchurian (or White-browed) Reed Warbler and we should also find some impressive Sarus Cranes of the rare southeast Asian subspecies sharpei.

In areas of shorter grassland, we should flush Common (or Small) Buttonquail and with a bit of luck King (or Blue-breasted) Quail. If we are very fortunate indeed we will find some migrant Oriental Plovers, which may include dapper white-headed males. Indeed, it is likely that the vast Tonle Sap floodplain is an important migration stopover site for this poorly-known species.

We will also come across a number of open country species such as Black-winged Kite, Eastern Marsh Harrier, the stunning Pied Harrier, Horsfield’s Bush Lark, Oriental Skylark, Sand Martin (or Bank Swallow), Richard’s Pipit, Pied Bush Chat, Bluethroat, Siberian Rubythroat, Dusky Warbler, Striated Grassbird, Siamese Pied Myna and the declining Red Avadavat. We may also come across the rapidly declining Yellow-breasted Bunting, although it is nowadays uncommon.

Afterwards, we will head for the remote Tmat Boey region in Preah Vihear province in north-central Cambodia for a three nights stay.

Owing to the much-improved roads, our progress will be much faster than it used to be. During the journey, we will stop in a good area for the smart little Collared Falconet. We also have a first chance for White-rumped Falcon.

White-winged Duck is a rare speciality that still survives in Northern Cambodia, but it is hard to find. Sometimes an individual or two start to turn up at Prey Veng and we will stop off there to look in the late afternoon and early evening (the best time of day) if there are recent sightings.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Days 7-8 The area in which the Giant and White-shouldered Ibises are to be found is part of the low-lying, extended floodplain of the Mekong River in the northern part of Preah Vihear province. Flooded for much of the year, the area is only accessible to motor vehicles for a few months during the dry season! The area consists of large open plains interspersed with extensive tracts of dry, open, deciduous forest, with areas of denser evergreen forest close to watercourses. As the floodwaters recede through the dry season (and the heat increases!), the available wetland habitats become gradually fewer until just a relatively few small forest pools remain. These pools, known locally as ‘trapeang’, concentrate the waterbirds, and in particular the Giant and White-shouldered Ibises. Our visit is timed to be late in the dry season and we will be concentrating our efforts on a number of these ‘trapeangs’ for our quarry.

Birds are shy here owing to hunting (although the ibises are not specifically targeted) and as we walk through the open woodland from one trapeang to the next, the first sign of the ibises is likely to be boreholes in the muddy edge of one of the pools, indicating where they have been feeding, or we may hear their strange crane-like bugling. Eventually, with some careful stalking through the forest, we will surely get views of these near-mythical species and hopefully we will enjoy really good views. The search could well be quite long, but our efforts should be richly rewarded. Other species attracted to the pools may include Woolly-necked Stork, White-breasted Waterhen, Stork-billed Kingfisher and sometimes Green Sandpiper.

It is, however, the deciduous and dry-dipterocarp forests that hold the bulk of the species inhabiting the area and, although they go very quiet in the heat of the day, we should encounter many species. Most important among these are the localized Rufous-winged Buzzard, the smart White-rumped Falcon, the attractive Chinese Francolin, the scarce and semi-nomadic Pale-capped Pigeon, the beautiful Black-headed Woodpecker, Swinhoe’s Minivet, the localized Brown Prinia (the deignani form here is known as Deignan’s Prinia), the localized Vinous-breasted Myna and Burmese (or Neglected) Nuthatch.

More widespread species are likely to include the impressive Black Baza, Crested Honey Buzzard, Shikra, Crested Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Red Junglefowl, Orange-breasted, Thick-billed and Yellow-footed Green Pigeons, Common Emerald Dove, Green Imperial Pigeon, Indian, Banded Bay and Violet Cuckoos, Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo, Blossom-headed Parakeet, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Crested Treeswift, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Blue-eared Barbet and a rich variety of woodpeckers including the prehistoric-looking Great Slaty Woodpecker, the striking White-bellied Woodpecker, Freckle-breasted (or Spot-breasted), Yellow-crowned, Rufous, Grey-capped Pygmy and Rufous-bellied Woodpeckers, Lesser and Greater Yellownapes, and Common and Greater Flamebacks.

Widespread passerines are likely to include Olive-backed Pipit, Black-headed, Black-crested, Sooty-headed and Stripe-throated Bulbuls, the colourful Golden-fronted and Blue-winged Leafbirds, Large and Indochinese Cuckooshrikes, Scarlet, Small and Ashy Minivets, Common and Large Woodshrikes, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Common and Great Ioras, Rufescent and Grey-breasted Prinias, Dark-necked Tailorbird, Yellow-browed, Two-barred, Pale-legged Leaf and Radde’s Warblers, White-rumped Shama, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Asian Brown, Taiga (or Red-throated), Hainan Blue and Indochinese Blue Flycatchers, White-browed Fantail, Black-naped Monarch, Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher, White-crested Laughingthrush, Puff-throated and Chestnut-capped Babblers, Pin-striped Tit-babbler, White-bellied Erpornis, the attractive Burmese Shrike, Ashy, Bronzed, Hair-crested and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Rufous Treepie, Black-hooded Oriole, Common Hill Myna, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Indochinese Bush Lark, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker and Van Hasselt’s Sunbird.

We should also encounter a few of the scarcer or shyer inhabitants of this fascinating area, which include Crested Goshawk, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Asian Emerald Cuckoo, Brown-backed Needletail, Heart-spotted and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, Eyebrowed and White’s Thrushes, Siberian Blue Robin, Abbott’s Babbler and Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush.

More open country species found here include Barred Buttonquail, Red-wattled Lapwing, Red Collared Dove, Asian Koel, Indochinese Roller, White-throated Kingfisher, the vivid Asian Green Bee-eater, Eurasian Hoopoe, Purple Sunbird and Scaly-breasted and White-rumped Munias. If we are lucky we will also find a Yellow-legged Buttonquail.

A good number of nightbirds are present in the area. Likely species include Brown Fish Owl, Oriental and Collared Scops Owls, Spotted and Brown Wood Owls, Brown Hawk-Owl and Large-tailed, Savanna and sometimes Indian Nightjars.

Whilst mammals are not conspicuous, we should encounter the attractive Finlayson’s Squirrel and Indochinese Ground Squirrel.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 9 After some early morning birding at Tmat Boey, we will head south to Kratie, situated on the banks of the mighty Mekong, for an overnight stay.

This afternoon we will visit an area of wetlands and paddyfields where we shall have a second chance for the rare and declining Asian Golden Weaver which can often be found in this area alongside Streaked and sometimes Baya Weavers. The area is also good for Cotton Pygmy Goose, Watercock, Ruddy-breasted and White-browed Crakes, Grey-headed Swamphen, Lesser Coucal, the attractive Plain-backed Sparrow and Red Avadavat. Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler is easier to try and see here compared with our boat trip at Prek Toal.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 10 This morning we will visit an area of deep water pools in the Mekong where we can expect to find the recently described and extremely localized Mekong Wagtail (it is very distinctive, looking like an African Pied Wagtail). We should also see some endearing Irrawaddy River Dolphins. This cetacean is now endangered in the Mekong, with numbers in the river down to around 70. We should also see numbers of waterbirds around Kratie, which may include Small Pratincole.

Afterwards, we will head for Phnom Penh airport, from where we take a late afternoon or early evening flight to Vientiane, the capital of Laos, for an overnight stay.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 11 We shall set off early and drive to an area of the Mekong river upstream from the capital of Laos where a population of Jerdon’s Bush Chats breeds among the bushes exposed on the riverbed during the low-flow season at this time of year. We should find the smart males perching on tall stems, singing away in the morning cool.

Along the river, we should also find River Lapwing, Grey-throated Martin, Wire-tailed Swallow, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Thick-billed Warbler, Chestnut-tailed Starling and, if we are lucky, White-browed Piculet.

Afterwards, we will travel into Central Laos along good roads, eventually passing through very scenic areas dominated by dramatic karst limestone outcrops before finally reaching the village of Ban Nahin, where we will stay for two nights. We will arrive at Ban Nahin in time for some initial exploration.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 12 Our primary target in the Ban Nahin area will be the endemic Bare-faced Bulbul, and we will likely see it perched atop the pointed tips of the limestone pinnacles and perhaps gliding from one to the other. This new species is only known from two areas in Laos, and this is the most accessible of the two.

We will also be looking for two other limestone specialists. We should encounter Sooty Babbler, a species endemic to the karst country of Laos and adjacent Vietnam, and if we are in luck the restricted-range Limestone Leaf Warbler.

The more difficult special birds of the area include Pied Falconet, Yellow-vented Green Pigeon, Pale-headed Woodpecker, Eared Pitta, Spot-necked Babbler, Black-browed Fulvetta and White-tailed Flycatcher.

More widespread species we may encounter at Ban Nahin include Himalayan Swiftlet, Speckled Piculet, Green-backed Tit, Buff-breasted Babbler, Hill Blue Flycatcher, Streaked Spiderhunter and Crimson Sunbird. More uncommon but widespread birds of the area include Oriental Hobby, Silver Pheasant, Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl, Sultan Tit and Orange-bellied Leafbird.

Mammals will be few and far between due to the hunting pressure that persists in this part of the world, but we may be lucky enough to find the globally threatened and endemic Laotian Langur.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 13 After some final birding in the Ban Nahin area we shall retrace our steps to Vientiane airport and catch a late afternoon flight to Singapore for a two nights stay.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 14 Singapore tends to be overlooked by birders but this small city-state holds some good birds.

One of our prime targets today will be the Critically Endangered and rather attractive Straw-headed Bulbul, a species that has been trapped to the verge of extinction because of its popularity as a cagebird. Singapore is now the last place with a reasonable surviving population of this mega-speciality.

Another good bird, and one that is surprisingly easy to see in Singapore, is Red-legged Crake.

Many other birds will be seen today, but these are also likely in and around Panti Forest in Malaysia. If we have time we will check out an area of mangroves for Mangrove Blue Flycatcher.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 15 We will take the express train across the causeway linking Singapore to the city of Johor Bahru in Malaysia and then continue by road to Kota Tinggi for a four nights stay. This afternoon we will commence our exploration of Panti Bird Sanctuary.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Days 16-18 Panti Bird Sanctuary (formerly known as Panti Forest Reserve) protects a large tract of mainly lowland dipterocarp and peat-swamp forest that was partly logged in the past, but which is now well regenerated.

Above all, we will be on the lookout at Panti for the unique Rail-babbler, the sole member of the family Eupetidae. This beautiful and mysterious species is notoriously shy and difficult to see, but Panti Forest offers a better chance than anywhere else of observing it, and our chances during a stay of this length are very high. As we walk along the reserve’s trails, we should hear the long mournful whistles that betray the presence of our quarry and then we will attempt to watch it stalking through the leaf litter like an elongated rail, or calling from a stump or low branch.

We will also be focussing on the very localized and uncommon Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeon, the near-threatened Red-crowned Barbet and the uncommon Black-and-white Bulbul, all of which Panti is well-known for.

Other species of particular interest we may well encounter at Panti, or in the surrounding area, include Great Argus (more likely to be heard than seen), Little Cuckoo-Dove, Little and Pink-necked Green Pigeons, Raffles’s, Red-billed, Chestnut-bellied and Black-bellied Malkohas, Malaysian Eared Nightjar, Whiskered Treeswift, Diard’s and Scarlet-rumped Trogons, the stunning Red-bearded Bee-eater, Oriental Dwarf and Banded Kingfishers, Yellow-crowned and Sooty Barbets, Banded, Checker-throated and Crimson-winged Woodpeckers, Blue-rumped Parrot, Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot, Green, Black-and-red, Black-and-yellow and Dusky Broadbills, Rufous-winged Philentoma, Green Iora, Fiery Minivet, Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike, Dark-throated Oriole, Black-headed, Grey-bellied, Puff-backed, Olive-winged, Cream-vented, Asian Red-eyed, Spectacled, Yellow-bellied, Hairy-backed, Buff-vented and Streaked Bulbuls, Rufous-tailed Tailorbird, Fluffy-backed Tit-babbler, Grey-headed, Chestnut-rumped, Chestnut-winged, Rufous-fronted, Horsfield’s, Short-tailed, Moustached, Rufous-crowned, White-chested, Ferruginous and Black-capped Babblers, Greater Green and Lesser Green Leafbirds, Yellow-breasted and Crimson-breasted Flowerpeckers, and Plain, Red-throated and Copper-throated Sunbirds, and Thick-billed, Spectacled, Yellow-eared and Grey-breasted Spiderhunters

More widespread species often seen at Panti include Crested Serpent Eagle, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Common Emerald and Zebra Doves, Thick-billed Green Pigeon, Plaintive and Violet Cuckoos, Germain’s Swiftlet, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Blue-eared Barbet, White-bellied, Laced and Rufous Woodpeckers, Common Flameback, Common Iora, White-bellied Erpornis, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Malaysian Pied Fantail, Large-billed Crow, Pacific Swallow, Pin-striped Tit-babbler, White-crowned Forktail, Asian Fairy-bluebird, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, the introduced Javan Myna, Common Hill Myna, White-rumped Shama, Blue-winged Leafbird, Orange-bellied and Scarlet-backed Flowerpeckers, Ruby-cheeked, Van Hasselt’s, Olive-backed and Purple-naped Sunbirds, and Little Spiderhunter.

More uncommon species at Panti, a number of which we could encounter during our visit, include Crested Partridge, Crested Fireback, Crested Goshawk, Red Junglefowl, Jambu Fruit Dove, Malaysian Hawk-Cuckoo, Indian Cuckoo, Lesser Coucal, Gould’s Frogmouth, Grey-rumped Treeswift, Red-naped and Cinnamon-rumped Trogons, Rufous-collared and Black-capped Kingfishers, Bushy-crested and White-crowned Hornbills, Malaysian Honeyguide, Orange-backed Woodpecker, Black-thighed Falconet, Garnet and Malay Banded Pittas, Grey-cheeked Bulbul, Maroon-chested Philentoma, Black Magpie, Crested Jay, White-necked, Black-throated, Scaly-crowned and Grey-breasted Babblers, Large Wren-Babbler, Rufous-tailed Shama, Rufous-chested Flycatcher, Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher, Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker, Crimson Sunbird and Long-billed Spiderhunter.

While based at Kota Tinggi, we will also visit a mangrove area to look for yet another regional speciality, the brightly coloured Mangrove Pitta. Other birds in this area are likely to include the splendid Barred Eagle-Owl as well as Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Little Bronze Cuckoo, Collared Kingfisher, Blue-throated Bee-eater, Golden-bellied Gerygone, House Crow, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Common, Dark-necked and Ashy Tailorbirds, Swinhoe’s White-eye, Asian Glossy Starling and Scaly-breasted Munia.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 19 After some final birding at Panti we will head northwards through West Malaysia to Fraser’s Hill for a three nights stay.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Days 20-21 Fraser’s Hill is an attractive hill station set amidst mature montane forest. From the highest point in the area (at about 1300m) there is a breathtaking vista of forested hills stretching away as far as the eye can see. Trails run into the forest but in fact the low density of development means that many species can actually be found along the roads.

The avifauna here is strikingly different from that of West Malaysian lowland forest areas, consisting largely of montane forms. Major targets during our stay will include no fewer than three West Malaysian endemics; Malayan Partridge (easy to hear, more difficult to see), Malayan Whistling Thrush and Malayan Laughingthrush. Other important specialities include Blyth’s Hawk-Eagle, Fire-tufted Barbet, the elusive Rusty-naped Pitta (fairly easy to hear but a devil to see!), Black-and-crimson Oriole, Rufous-browed and Pygmy Flycatchers, the tricky Marbled Wren-Babbler, the handsome Black Laughingthrush, the restricted-range Hume’s White-eye and Blue Nuthatch. If we are very lucky, we will encounter the patchily-distributed Yellow-vented Green Pigeon.

The thickly vegetated treetops shelter larger species like Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Little Cuckoo-Dove, Golden-whiskered and Red-throated Barbets, the restricted-range Black-browed Barbet (found only in the Malay Peninsula and Sumatra) and the handsome Banded Broadbill. Skulking in the understorey are more subtly-plumaged, though no less interesting birds, such as Streaked Wren-Babbler, Pygmy Cupwing and Lesser Shortwing. Long-tailed Broadbill and Common Green Magpie are amongst the more colourful forest inhabitants, though hard to see while hiding in the darker forest recesses will be stunning Red-headed and Orange-breasted Trogons. An excellent variety of more widespread flycatchers occur, with Verditer, Little Pied and Hill Blue Flycatchers, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher and Large Niltava all possible.

Other species that we are likely to encounter include Plume-toed Swiftlet, the splendid Rhinoceros Hornbill (uncommon at this location), Speckled Piculet, Greater and Lesser Yellownapes, Maroon Woodpecker, Large Cuckooshrike, Grey-chinned Minivet, Blyth’s and Black-eared Shrike-babblers, Black-crested, Scaly-breasted, Stripe-throated, Ochraceous and Mountain Bulbuls, White-throated Fantail, Bronzed and Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, the spectacular Sultan Tit, Rufous-bellied Swallow, Large Scimitar Babbler, Buff-breasted, Golden and Grey-throated Babblers, Spectacled (or Chestnut-capped) Laughingthrush, Silver-eared Mesia, Blue-winged Minla, Mountain Fulvetta, Long-tailed Sibia, Slaty-backed Forktail, Yellow-bellied and Chestnut-crowned Warblers, Mountain Tailorbird, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Black-throated Sunbird and Streaked Spiderhunter.

We are also likely to encounter a few of the area’s more uncommon but widespread inhabitants, which include Rufous-bellied and Black Eagles, Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Green-billed Malkoha, Dark Hawk-Cuckoo, Sunda Cuckoo, Collared Owlet, Mountain Scops Owl, Wreathed and Great Hornbills, Bay Woodpecker, Ashy Bulbul, Mountain Leaf Warbler, Himalayan Cutia, Collared Babbler and Pin-tailed Parrotfinch.

Amongst the local mammals, we can expect to see a variety of squirrels, as well as Banded Leaf Monkeys and, if we are lucky, a family of Siamangs. The latter is a large species of black gibbon, and their extraordinary vocalizations can frequently be heard echoing around the hills in the early mornings.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 22 After spending the morning at Fraser’s Hill we will transfer to Bukit Tinggi for an overnight stay, arriving in time for some late afternoon birding.

Our main reason for coming to this second ‘hill station’ is to look for the once-hard-to-see endemic Mountain Peacock-Pheasant, which has now become regularly observed at Bukit Tinggi thanks to bird photographers leaving food for them!

As well as this magnificent pheasant and the attractive Ferruginous Partridge (which likewise comes out regularly for treats here but which is hard to see elsewhere), we will have another opportunity to see some of the montane birds listed for Fraser’s Hill. In addition, we have good chances of encounters with Blyth’s Frogmouth, Bushy-crested Hornbill, Grey-and-buff and Buff-rumped Woodpeckers, Silver-breasted Broadbill, Cinereous Bulbul and Brown Fulvetta.

Cambodia, Laos, Singapore & Malaysia: Day 23 After some final birding at Bukit Tinggi we will head for Kuala Lumpur international airport where our tour ends this afternoon.

 

MOUNT AURAL PRE-TOUR EXTENSION
Mount Aural: Day 1 The extension starts this afternoon at Phnom Penh airport, from where we drive for about an hour to the town of Udong for an overnight stay.

Mount Aural: Day 2 We will head off early this morning and drive westwards to Srei Ken Bei in Kampong Speu province, situated near the foot of Mount Aural (or Phnom Aural) in the Cardamom Mountains.

After driving to the base of the mountain we will walk up to our first campsite for an overnight stay. The hike up to the first camp is pretty easy and we will have plenty of birds to look for en route.

Among the more interesting birds at these altitudes are Collared Falconet (not common, but a fair chance0, the restricted-range Green-eared and Moustached Barbets and Bamboo Woodpecker (a very localized species in Cambodia).

Widespread species we may well encounter today (or again at these lower altitudes as we descend the mountain) include Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Great Eared Nightjar, Orange-breasted Trogon, Laced Woodpecker, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Large Woodshrike, Great Iora, Scarlet Minivet, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, White-bellied Erpornis, Grey-eyed Bulbul, Yellow-bellied and Yellow-browed Warblers, Dark-necked Tailorbird, Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush, Asian Fairy-bluebird, White-rumped Shama, Thick-billed Flowerpecker (of the form modesta, sometimes split as Modest Flowerpecker), Yellow-vented and Plain Flowerpeckers, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (of the near-endemic form cambodianum which lacks red on its breast), Ruby-cheeked Sunbird and Little Spiderhunter.

Mount Aural: Days 3-4 At 1813m, Phnom Aural (or Aoral) is the tallest peak in Cambodia. To protect the biodiversity of these remote and still largely forested mountains, the Phnom Aural Wildlife Sanctuary was established.

On the morning of Day 3 we will continue our ascent to the second campsite, situated at about 1200m (about 3900ft). The hike is quite steep in places and in one area, for an ascent of about 70 metres (230ft), there are rope guard rails. We will spend two nights at our second campsite which is in the midst of beautiful primary montane forest with many huge forest giants. Pileated Gibbons are still quite common on the mountain and their strange, evocative calls add to the atmosphere of this special place.

Here in the upper part of the Cardamom Mountains, one of our prime targets will be the endemic Cambodian Laughingthrush. This species, which has a tiny range, has been seen by very few birders, but here they are quite common and we should have several encounters with noisy groups.

Another important target at Aural is the beautiful and near-endemic Chestnut-headed Partridge, which ranges through the largely inaccessible Cardamom and Elephant Mountains. As with all Asian forest partridges, it is shy, but with persistence we should see it at least once if not several times.

Other important targets will be the endemic lewisi subspecies of the Silver Pheasant (rather uncommon), the lovely Green Cochoa and Davison’s Leaf Warbler (of the near-endemic form intensior, formerly placed in Kloss’s Leaf Warbler). Aural is also a good place for the handsome Banded Kingfisher, the lovely Banded Broadbill, the striking Blue Pitta, the noisy Indochinese Green Magpie, the superb White-throated Rock Thrush (a winter visitor from Northeast Asia) and the shy Streaked Wren-Babbler. There are also endemic Cardamom forms of the White-tailed Robin and Blue-winged Minla. (the latter is only found at higher altitudes, which we may not have time to visit).

More difficult specialities include Rufous-bellied Eagle, the secretive Green-legged (or Scaly-breasted) Partridge, Mountain Scops Owl, Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl and Sulphur-breasted Warbler. Although the secretive Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo does occur at Aural, the chances of seeing one are extremely low.

Other species of note on Aural include Grey Nightjar, Grey-chinned Minivet, Mountain Bulbul, White-throated Fantail, Claudia’s Leaf, Alstrom’s (or Plain-tailed) and Chestnut-crowned Warblers, the shy Mugimaki Flycatcher (uncommon) and Little Pied Flycatcher.

Widespread species we may well encounter at higher levels on Mount Aural include Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Barred Cuckoo-Dove, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Collared Owlet, Red-headed Trogon, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Great and Wreathed Hornbills, Rufous Woodpecker, Long-tailed and Silver-breasted Broadbills, Blyth’s Shrike-babbler, Bronzed and Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos, Eurasian Jay, Ochraceous Bulbul, Large and White-browed Scimitar Babblers, Swinhoe’s White-eye, Orange-headed Thrush, Verditer Flycatcher and Black-throated Sunbird (here of the endemic subspecies cambodiana).

Mount Aural: Day 5 Today we will head back down the mountain and then drive to Udong to join up with those arriving for the main tour. That hot shower is going to be very welcome!